Garage door opener and motor problems
Opener faults split into mechanical and electronic. Mechanically, a stripped nylon drive gear or a disengaged trolley makes the motor run happily while the door stays put. Electronically, a failed capacitor gives you a motor that hums but will not start, and a damaged control board gives intermittent behaviour that changes day to day.
In this part of Johannesburg, load shedding adds a third category. Repeated hard power cuts kill backup batteries early, corrupt stored travel limits and, over time, take out boards. If your door stopped behaving after a bout of outages, start at the battery and the board — garage door opener repair covers the full test sequence.
Noisy, shuddering or uneven doors
Noise is diagnostic. A rhythmic squeal that speeds up with the door is dry roller bearings. A metallic grinding is a roller running on a damaged track or a bearing that has collapsed. A deep bang partway through travel is usually a hinge or a section joint taking load it should not be taking. A rattling that changes when the door is nearly closed points at loose track brackets.
Shuddering, where the door climbs in a series of jerks, is a balance problem: the springs no longer match the door weight and the motor is dragging it. Left alone it will end in a burnt motor or a snapped spring, and it is exactly the fault an annual garage door maintenance visit is designed to catch.
The garage door will not open
A door that refuses to open is usually a broken torsion spring. The motor will strain, hum, or move a few centimetres and stop, because without spring assistance it is being asked to lift the door's full weight — often more than 100kg on a double sectional. Look at the spring above the door: a broken one has a visible gap, like a spiral cut in half.
The second most common cause is a snapped or derailed lift cable, which leaves one side of the door lower than the other. The third is an opener fault — a stripped drive gear or a failed board — where the motor runs but nothing moves.
Do not keep pressing the remote. Every attempt after a spring or cable failure drags the door further out of square and turns a straightforward spring repair into track and panel damage as well.