The garage door will not open
A door that refuses to open is usually a broken torsion spring. The motor will strain, hum, or move a few centimetres and stop, because without spring assistance it is being asked to lift the door's full weight — often more than 100kg on a double sectional. Look at the spring above the door: a broken one has a visible gap, like a spiral cut in half.
The second most common cause is a snapped or derailed lift cable, which leaves one side of the door lower than the other. The third is an opener fault — a stripped drive gear or a failed board — where the motor runs but nothing moves.
Do not keep pressing the remote. Every attempt after a spring or cable failure drags the door further out of square and turns a straightforward spring repair into track and panel damage as well.
The garage door will not close
A door that opens but refuses to close is almost always the safety beams. The two infrared sensors mounted low on either side of the opening must see each other; a spider web, a bag leaning against one, a knocked bracket or a lens covered in dust breaks the beam and the opener refuses to close as designed. Most units flash an error code on the head unit while this is happening.
If the beams are clear and aligned, the next suspects are the down-travel limit setting and the close-force setting on the control board. A door that closes fully and then immediately reverses is being told it has hit an obstruction — usually because the limit is set slightly too low and the door is pressing into the floor.
Broken garage door springs
Springs are the single most common failure point on any garage door because they do the actual lifting. A torsion spring is rated in cycles — typically 10,000 for a standard spring, which is roughly seven years at four cycles a day, and considerably less on a household that runs the door eight or ten times daily.
When one breaks, the door becomes dangerously heavy and unbalanced. Springs are replaced in matched pairs for a reason: both have the same cycle history, and fitting one new spring against one worn spring leaves the door pulling to one side and the survivor failing within months. Full detail is on the garage door spring repair page.
Broken or slipped cables
The lift cables run from the bottom bracket of the door up to a grooved drum on the spring shaft. When a cable frays, jumps its groove or snaps, that corner of the door drops and the door sits visibly skew in the opening.
A skew door binds in the tracks, and forcing it under motor power bends track sections and can pull the door off its rollers entirely. Cables are always replaced as a pair and the drums reset so both sides wind evenly — see garage door cable repair.
Damaged or misaligned tracks
Tracks take the punishment when a vehicle nudges the door, when a roller seizes and gouges the channel, or when a bracket works loose over years of vibration. Once a track is out of true, the door grinds at one point in its travel, sticks halfway, or jumps a roller out of the channel altogether.
Minor distortion can be straightened in place. Anything creased, split at a joint or bent at the radius needs the section replaced and the whole run re-shimmed — the detail is on the garage door track repair page.
Garage door opener and motor problems
Opener faults split into mechanical and electronic. Mechanically, a stripped nylon drive gear or a disengaged trolley makes the motor run happily while the door stays put. Electronically, a failed capacitor gives you a motor that hums but will not start, and a damaged control board gives intermittent behaviour that changes day to day.
In this part of Johannesburg, load shedding adds a third category. Repeated hard power cuts kill backup batteries early, corrupt stored travel limits and, over time, take out boards. If your door stopped behaving after a bout of outages, start at the battery and the board — garage door opener repair covers the full test sequence.
Noisy, shuddering or uneven doors
Noise is diagnostic. A rhythmic squeal that speeds up with the door is dry roller bearings. A metallic grinding is a roller running on a damaged track or a bearing that has collapsed. A deep bang partway through travel is usually a hinge or a section joint taking load it should not be taking. A rattling that changes when the door is nearly closed points at loose track brackets.
Shuddering, where the door climbs in a series of jerks, is a balance problem: the springs no longer match the door weight and the motor is dragging it. Left alone it will end in a burnt motor or a snapped spring, and it is exactly the fault an annual garage door maintenance visit is designed to catch.